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Stories of Bruges

More stories to tell

There are so many stories to tell about Bruges (and Belgium) so this is where you'll find them.

If you want to get a personal tour filled with other stories... Reservations can be made.

If you have a request (walk or story), ask through mail (info@yourbruges.com) and I'll look it up for you !

Plane crash at the Church of Our Lady

Historical moments Posted on Fri, July 17, 2020 10:43:23

Early in the morning, on Thursday, 29 September 1938, 2nd Lieutenant Paul Verlaine took off with his Fairey Fox II from the airfield of Goetsenhoven near Tienen (east of Brussels) with as destination Knokke at the coast. His radio operator was 2nd Lieutenant Laurent Keyenberg. Due to the threat of war, (WWII was brewing) higher command decided the 2nd Lieutenant Verlaine was to be shifted to the airfield near the coast to prepare the installation of his detachment.

2nd Lieutenant Paul Verlaine

When arriving in the area of Bruges, the plane encountered a heavy fog in its way. By unlucky coincidence, the flightpath lead directly towards the tower of the Church of Our Lady of Bruges. On an altitude of around 100 meters (328 feet), the aircraft hit the southwest corner-tower and dragged a part of this tower with it. The plane crashed in the garden of the diocese palace, about 390 feet (120 meters) away from the church. The pilot, 2nd Lieutenant Paul Verlaine didn’t survive the crash, his colleague, 2nd Lieutenant Laurent Keyenberg, was severely injured and thanks to a quick surgical intervention by Professor Dr. Sebrechts, survived.

The Arrow points where the plane hit the tower

The debris of the corner-tower punctured the roof of the church and caused damage to the surrounding area. At the moment of the crash a service was held in the church. Adults and children fled the church in panic. A woman named Emilienne Verhaeghe was injured at her arm, and treated in the St John Hospital. A man named Adolf Coucke was less fortunate and was severely injured to his back. The mayor, deputy mayor Reylandt and examining magistrate Matthys soon arrived on the scene. The wheels of the airplane could be seen hanging from a balustrade at the tower. The machinegun was found against a façade of a house. There were 12 bombs on board of the plane, but only 11 were retrieved! After some inquiry with the Center of Historical Documentation of the Armed Forced is was almost certain it were training bombs on board of the plane. In peacetime no live bombs were transported in such a way.

The wreck of the Fairey Fox IIM moments after the crash

There is a report on this incident noted by André Dancoine, caretaker of the diocese palace.

The Fairey Fox IIM in which 2nd Lieutenant Verlaine flew

“On Thursday, 29 September 1938 Monsignor Lamiroy was going to consecrate a new altar in the Avekapelle. He was finished giving a mass in the small chapel and was having breakfast. Suddenly around 7.15am there we heard a crashing noise. A military plane had hit the southwest corner-tower of the Church of Our Lady and crashed in the garden of the palace. We had talked there was a heavy fog that morning. The crew of the plane were a lieutenant and radio operator. They departed from Tienen with destination Knokke. They signaled: ‘We are in a city, but don’t know where.’ Due to the heavy fog the accident happened. Between the propeller and the body of the plane a stone of about 35 kg (77lb) was stuck. The plane hit a tree in the garden; otherwise, the plane would’ve crashed in the chapel. Army, police and gendarmerie arrived quickly on the scene. It appeared there were 12 bombs on board; they looked like big bottles. Eleven were found within a short time. The next morning four soldiers came from Tienen. But the 12th bomb was not found. It was assumed it was lost somewhere on the Walplaats or the roof of the church. The lieutenant-pilot died in the crash, burned by the flammable kerosene. Doctor Coucke came on site, the radio operator was still alive and was transferred to the military hospital in the Peterseliestraat. The remains of the pilot were also brought there.
When in 1955 the second phase of the clearing of the garden took place, Gaston, a gardener with the firm De Mey, was digging out the plant on the side of the garden. He stumbled on the lost bomb! It was about 35 cm (11 inch) deep in the ground. The demolition squad came to disarm the device.”



Bruges, Ghent and a dragon

Uncategorised Posted on Mon, April 27, 2020 19:11:53

It is generally know there is a tremendous rivalry between the cities of Bruges and Ghent. The Battle at Beverhoutsveld on 3 May 1382 is a moment where troops of both cities engage in battle. The army of Ghent won against the – somewhat drunk – troops of Bruges. Bruges was pillaged, they took our golden dragon. Coming from the Blind Donkey Street, turning in the Eekhoustraat street towards the Gentpoort, which obviously leads to Ghent! With those two poor, blind donkeys pulling the wagon with a golden dragon on it… or so the legend says…

A golden dragon in Bruges, at Eekhoutstraat 5

This rivalry started a long, long time ago!

Under the command of Count Baldwin IX, the troops of Ghent and Bruges occupied the city of Constantinople. The daughter of the king, Blanca, captured by the men of Bruges was held captive in one of the many towers in the city. Not long after the door was locked, a dragon flew pass the tower, scaring off the guards (probably men from Ghent). The dragon took a position at the tower, letting no one pass. This girl was his prisoner now!

A desperate king asked the help of the troops of Ghent. Baldwin IX gathered his men and faced the dragon. However, when they approached this foul beast, it simply blew them back in a cloud of stinking smoke. The brave men attempted a second run, but the dragon was simply too strong. There was no other thing to do but retreat. 

The dragon on top of the Belfry of Ghent

The disappointed king offered the men of Ghent a chest filled with gold together with a golden sculpture of the dragon, but they knew their attempt would be futile, so thanked the king for the offer. The men of Bruges heard of this chest with gold and golden dragon, and the failed attempts of the men of Ghent. The men of Bruges went to the king and promised him they would free his daughter. Of course, the reward should be the same. The king, desperate to have his daughter back at his side, agreed.

The men of Bruges gathered around a steaming, big cooking pot, where the contents of a mysterious bottle were added. They placed the pot in proximity of the dragon, which sniffed it carefully, apparently liked the smell and voraciously emptied the pot. After that delicious meal, he felt sleepy; with his stomach filled, he decided to take a nap. Taking advantage of this situation, the men of Bruges approached the dragon, tiptoeing closer, and killed the dragon by stabbing a sword through its heart. The king was ecstatic, gave the promised reward to the men. The men of Bruges left Constantinople by ship soon after, with their reward and Blanca, back home. The men of Ghent were left behind.

A few months later, the men arrived at the most beautiful beaches, with wavy sand dunes, close to Bruges. In honor of Blanca, the place where they landed was named after her. The sand dunes looked a bit like small mountains, so they gave it the name ‘Blanca-bergen’ (Blanca mountains). Today this place still exists and is named Blankenberge.

When they arrived in Bruges, the golden dragon was placed on top of the Saint Donatian church.

The Belfry of Ghent, with a fire-breathing dragon !

The men of Ghent were out on revenge. Under the command of Philip van Artevelde, they chose 3 May 1382, the day of the Holy Blood procession, to attack Bruges and conquer that dragon, at last. 



Michelangelo’s Madonna

Historical figures Posted on Wed, April 22, 2020 09:36:40

It was a cold autumn’s day in Carrara, on 19 October 1503. The young, 28-year old sculptor Michelangelo Buonarroti had just heard the horrible news of the death of his good friend, Francesco Todeschini Piccolomini. He had passed away the day before, less than a month after his election to Pope, Pius III. Pope Pius III had been a reformist, openly protesting against the political intrigues of his predecessor, Alexander VI. Officially Pius III died of an infection of an ulcer on his leg, but soon rumors of poisoning spread.

Michelangelo Buonarroti – sculpture at the Uffizi of Florence

Michelangelo came to Carrara, looking for a piece of marble. His friend Pius had ordered a sculpture, depicting a Madonna with Child, intended for the altar of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta in Siena, commemorating his uncle, Pope Pius II.
Michelangelo already had a good idea of what the sculpture would look like. But would the successor agree with the order and buy the sculpture?

In September 1504, summer didn’t seem to stop. Michelangelo gently touched the head of the Madonna, feeling the cool marble. The sculpture is beautiful to him. He demonstrated his new views on shapes with this masterpiece.
The papal advisor, architect Donato Bramante, had just left. The new pope, Julius II, ordered Bramante to come and inspect the sculpture before buying it. The young Michelangelo already showed his skills with his ‘Piëta’, his ‘David’ was almost ready, but the papal advisor had been less than praising. This sculpture, showing Mary and Child, diverged with everything the old masters made, sculptures and paintings.
Grumbling Bramante said, “What have you done? The Child is too big. Furthermore, the Mother is not carrying the Child, as a loving mother would do. It looks as she’s negligently lets Him go. Mother and Child aren’t even lovingly leaning towards each other. There is no form of connection between them! As if the two figures are independent from each other…”
Michelangelo explains they are eternally connected to each other in the single piece of marble, and by their hands holding. The Child also finds security in the folds of the Mother’s cloak. Michelangelo’s explanation couldn’t convince Bramante.
Look at Mary’s face! There is an absent expression, She’s not there! She is not interested in the Child, staring in front of her. This sculpture will never touch the hearts and minds of any faithful Christian!
When Michelangelo opened his mouth to explain the somewhat blank face is more an indeterminate melancholy, expressing the unbearable realization of Jesus’ future, redemptive sacrifice, and at the same time the laborious acquiescence in that inevitable predestination, Barmante doesn’t give him the opportunity.
The Child isn’t even looking at the people standing in front of Him. He’s looking – and so does Mary – down! How could any human turn to this atrocity in prayer!
Michelangelo knew the sculpture was intended to be placed high in the altar in Siena. In its rightful spot, Mary and Jesus would be looking towards anyone coming before them. And the proportions, when you were in the cathedral, looking up to the sculpture, were precise. But, Michelangelo understood the underlying message, Rome wasn’t buying this sculpture.

In the spring of 1505, Pope Julius II calls Michelangelo to Rome. The pope is of the opinion Michelangelo is the most suitable man to design and sculpt his cenotaph. The young sculptor has Madonna with Child Michelangelo Buonarroti 33 made name and fame with several masterpieces: the Piëta, the David, the sculptures of Peter and Paul on the altar of Piccolomini. For his mausoleum, Julius II was something grand: a colossal Moses.
Sadly, Barmante deemed additional improvements to the Saint Peter’s Basilica are priority, leaving no more money to have Michelangelo construct the mausoleum. Disappointed, Michelangelo returned to Florence.
Shortly after Michelangelo return to Florence, Giovanni and Alessandro di Moscheroni were staying in the city. They were wealthy traders in cloth, coming from Bruges. At that time, Bruges was at its hey days with economics.
Jan and Alexander van Moeskroen (they liked to use the Italian ‘di Moscheroni’, sounding a bit more posh than ‘van Moeskroen’ does) had heard of this genius sculptor. They wanted to know if this young sculptor could make a sculpture for the Church of Our Lady in Bruges. With Michelangelo’s name and fame spreading quickly, they knew soon it would be impossible to afford a sculpture made by him.

The sculpture at the Church of Our Lady (Bruges)

On 13 August 1506, Michelangelo received a letter by Giovanni Balducci. “I estimate Francesco de Pugliese will have the opportunity to send the sculpture to Viareggo, and then to Flanders, Bruges, to the firm Giovanni and Alessandro di Moscheroni and Co.
Michelangelo was a happy man. He sold the sculpture of Madonna and Child for 4000 florins. It was the first time one of his sculptures would leave Italy.
A few weeks later, the sculpture, neatly packed in a crate, arrived in Bruges. Jan and Alexander were pleased. They pulled off something nobody else could manage. They bought a sculpture of a artist who was already a legend while he was still alive. In 1514, they donated the sculpture to the Church of Our Lady.
The only request they made was to be buried were the sculpture would come. Still today, and for all eternity, they rest at the feet of the masterpiece they bought from the grand master himself.

The tomb of Jan and Alexander van Moeskroen (Moscron) at the foot of the sculpture.


The noble lady with naked breast who saved France!

Uncategorised Posted on Thu, March 26, 2020 12:23:32

On my walk I sometimes tell the story of the golden crowns you can find above the chimneys of City Hall.
The way Charles VII is portrayed in this story is less than flattering. Having so many mistresses and giving them houses and castles? When looking deeper in this, I found two names of mistresses: Antoinette de Maignelais and Agnès Sorel. This last lady played, next to Joan of Arc, a very important role in the life of Charles and France!
Born in 1422, living in a family of lower nobility, Agnès soon stood out for her uncanny and enigmatic beauty. No need to tell you this lovely lady was soon noted by Charles VII. He had many vices, a weak for women and a nose for beauty.
François-Frédéric Steenackers, a politician and essayist, wrote in 1868, “Charles VII had a flock of anonymous mistresses or for lack of a better word, a harem, following him everywhere.”
Agnès Sorel was different: she wasn’t only a gorgeous girl, but also incredibly intelligent and kind.

Charles VII by Jean Fouquet (1445-1450)


Steenackers continued, “It was a rare privilege, to have both a superior beauty of body and soul, with a physical and moral vitality complying with all the requirements of love.” The king was addicted.
Agnès was seen at the king’s side at almost every occasion. He took her to numerous official parties. No gift was left out, jewelry, clothing, even an estate! It is believed Charles gave her what is thought to be the first cut diamond. He gave her Château de Beauté, a castle straight from a fairytale. Charles never gave her a wedding ring, but the next best thing: the official recognition as his mistress.
It was the first time in history such a recognition every happened. This led to astonished reactions.
Steenackers wrote, “A mistress officially recognized by the king was not only a novelty, it was a revolution that, like all revolutions, couldn’t take place without causing outrage and hate.”Agnès was named a devilish manipulator and licentious slut.
Georges Chastellain, ally of the biggest opponent of Agnès, Louis XI, the Dauphin of France, son and heir of France accused her of making and designing inappropriate styles of clothing.
This clothing was described by politician Jean Jouvenel des Ursins as “with openings at the front through one could see the breasts and nipples of women.
Reading this, it made me remember the fuss when ‘nipplegate’ happened in on 1 February 2004, when during the halftime show of Superbowl XXXVIII, Justin Timberlake pulled Janet Jackson’s blouse open and for about half a second Janet Jackson’s breast – adorned with a nipple shield – was exposed. What would Georges Chastellain or Jean Jouvenel des Ursins say about that?

Virgin and her Child by Jean Fouquet (1450)


Painter Jean Fouquet is responsible for the image people have today of Agnès Sorel. It is generally assumed the Holy Virgin in his Virgin and her Child is based on Sorel. This image caused medieval writers to describe Agnès Sorel as the ‘first bimbo of France’.
It is through Steenackers we get a more correct picture of who Agnès really was. He writes, “The last years of the Hundred Years’ War introduced the saddest period of French history. The king didn’t care anymore. Instead, he indulged in entertainment. Gambling, drinking, orgies and female beauty were the only things to his interest. However, when Sorel appeared he changed. He took up his duties, realizing he had been blind to the situation in his country. Honest and capable men, friends of Sorel, took up leading positions in parliament and within two years France was – except for a small part – united again. Sorel urged the king to act and not idly stand by. Charles became interested in his duties, used common sense and a practical mind to hear solid, founded advice, assigning the right people for the tasks within the government.”
Sadly, this couldn’t last and when Sorel died in 1450 at the age of 28, pregnant of their fourth child, Charles’ spirit dies with her.
The official cause of death was dysentery, but the rumors of poisoning were confirmed in 2005 by forensic researcher Philippe Charlier.
Who was responsible? The theory Louis XI had his finger in all of this is very plausible. In his hunger for power, he made it his mission to undermine the rule of his father and Agnès, practically sharing the crown, stood in his way.
But it was the young lady, forever depicted with her breast naked, that was indirectly responsible for the unification of France in its darkest moment.



The carriage from hell

Uncategorised Posted on Mon, March 23, 2020 16:21:37

The streets Hemelrijk and Oliestraat are without any doubt the most peculiar streets in Bruges.  Brick walls where-ever you look. Definitely this is so far off the beaten track of tourism. I’m convinced you’re not seeing any tourists here, even anyone at all! Only people, who really need to be here, come here.

Two poor farmers, with many children, had a small farm in this area. In winter, every night a carriage passed through this street (which didn’t even had a name yet). A carriage pulled by four black horses. With a thundering noise, sounding like a hundred wild animals were unleashed, they passed the farm. You could hear the horses stomping and snorting. Fire was coming out of the horses nostrils, eyes as glowing pieces of coal. The carriage made rattling and creaking noise, making you think it would buckle any second. On the stage sat the Devil himself. Every night, at midnight, the carriage left at the cemetery, with inside the souls of those who went to purgatory and hell. At least that is what was told, for no one ever saw the carriage.

The farmer and his wife lay in bed, listening until the carriage was passed. The children, up on the attic cried in fear, “Mother, what is that? What is happening outside?”
Every time their mother answered, “Will you sleep now? It’s the carriage from hell. It’s taking the children who are not sleeping to hell.”
One night, when the family heard the carriage approaching, the wife said to her husband, “I would like to see what this carriage of hell looks like. I’m wondering what is making all that noise outside.”
“Stay inside and try to sleep.” her husband replied, not really trusting the hole thing. But – as so many women are – his wife was way too curious to just lie there and listen. Plus, she was stubborn.
She opened the window to see what was happening outside, but all she saw was a piece of hot-glowing coal in the middle of the road.
“There’s no carriage to be seen, only a piece of coal. If I would have that, it’ll much easier to light the fire tomorrow morning.” she said.
Sighing and reluctant her husband got out of bed, got the coal shovel to get the piece of hot coal.
“Tomorrow I only need to blow the coal a bit and we’ll have a nice fire going quickly.” his wife said. Soon they fell asleep…

The farm “Hemelrycke” in 1895.

The next morning, at the break of dawn, the farmer’s wife got up, took the piece of coal to get the fire going. Her husband was still putting on his socks when he heard her shouting in the living room. “What’s going on? Did you burn yourself?” he asked as he got in the room.
Without saying a word and trembling, his wife pointed towards the fireplace. The wood and ash was gone, even the piece of coals wasn’t there any more, but a green skull with red eyes was in its place.
“So it was the carriage of hell.” whispered the farmer.
They were too afraid to try and start a fire that day. When the children had left for school, they went to see the priest in St Anne church, to tell him the story and ask for help. When the priest heard the story, he turned white in fear. The wife asked the priest to come to the house and bless the house to exorcise the evil in the fireplace. But the priest knew he was no match for the Devil himself! Instead he gave the farmers the advice to throw the green skull on the carriage when it would pass by the following night.
That evening, the farmer and his wife were in bed, waiting for the carriage. The only thing they did was pray as they waited. As the bells on the belfry struck midnight, they heard the thundering noise in the distance.
The husband ran to the living room, took the green skull, ran back upstairs where his wife already opened the window. As he looked outside, for a brief moment, he gazed straight in the carriage for one split-second, but it felt almost like eternity to him.
He saw demons, men and women wriggling in fierce flames. The demons were laughing, but the unfortunate souls of humans were clearly in agonizing pain.
Quickly he threw the skull through the open window towards the carriage. Luckily, the green skull went through one of the windows, landing in the carriage. A strong smell of sulfur and pitch was almost overwhelming the farmer, so he closed his eyes and put his hand over mouth and nose. When he thought it was safe and opened his eyes, the carriage was nowhere to be seen. Since that night the carriage never passed by again.
Maybe it was then that this street got the name ‘Hemelrijk’ (Heavenly or Kingdom of Heaven).



The skull at the Smedenpoort

Uncategorised Posted on Thu, January 09, 2020 19:09:52

From ‘t Zand, one of the biggest squares in the city and if you feel like walking a bit, then follow cross the square to the Northwest corner, in the Smedenstraat, to find the Smedenpoort, one of the four gates there is left. When you’re there, go on the outside of the city and look at the gate. Don’t be frightened when you see the green skull smiling at you, it’s not a real skull… anymore!

The skull at the Smedenpoort

It was a warm summer’s day on 25 June 1691. The sun was high in the sky, burning down on the metal helmets of the soldiers guarding the Smedenpoort. There was a certain tension in the air, as everyone knew the French king; Louis XIV ordered a large army to move north to invade Bruges.

The guard duty was long. The city was constructed in such a way to be easily defendable and at every city gate soldiers were on high alert, keeping an eye out for any invading army. During the day, everyone coming in or going out of the city had to undergo a thorough check for any suspicious activity. At night, the gates remained firmly closed. Not only soldiers staffed the fortifications around Bruges, but also civilians helped where needed. Nobody wanted to imagine what would happen if the French would occupy the city!

The French knew Bruges would go down without a fight, and a long-lasting siege wasn’t something the invaders wanted to undergo with the high temperatures. An extra problem for the French was the lack of money. They weren’t able to pay their troops, for several months now, so there was much dissatisfaction with the men. To make victory a bit easier, they looked for a henchman in Bruges.

One of the gatekeepers who lived outside of the city of Bruges, François van der Straeten, made a deal with the French. Did he go for the money the French offered him? We don’t know. The arrangement was he would unlock the Smedenpoort at night during his shift. The day before this, a small group of French soldiers would hide in barracks near the Waterhouse, just outside the city walls. They would go through the unlocked gate to overtake the guards inside, thus securing the gate itself. Next early morning, the major part of the French troops – who would be waiting in the woods of Tillegem – would be able to get in the city easy and conquer Bruges.

In theory, a simple and fail-safe plan. On the evening of 25 June, the skies were overcast with dark clouds. Soon the first big raindrops fell. Heavy storms were about to end the hot day. A premonition of what was to come? Sweat ran down the face of François van der Straeten. Tomorrow he would be a rich man and flee south. 

However, that evening a skipper from Bruges, Jacob Wyndekens, sailed to the city of Bruges, coming from Damme. He docked just past the Boeveriepoort (on the map a bit north of the Smedenpoort) and walked towards the Waterhouse. The gates of the city were already closed for the night, so it was no use to try to get inside the city. He knew he would be able to find shelter for the night in one of the barracks at the Waterhouse. He already slept there before. At night, the barracks were empty, except for the occasional stray cat and mandatory rats.

It was there he discovered the French troops. How they got there, or what they were planning to do, he didn’t know, but it was without a doubt they were up to no good! Making sure they didn’t see or hear him, he returned to the Boeveriepoort. The guards let Jacob inside, where he told them about the French troops at the barracks. This news spread like wildfire through the city. While a sense of panic also spread with the news, several bold civilians gathered and armed themselves with whatever they could find. They went to the barracks to overcome the surprised French soldiers. 

Meanwhile, François van der Straeten, our traitor had unlocked the Smedenpoort, but saw what happened at the Waterhouse. He tried to escape but alert guard captured him. After a few medieval interrogation techniques, he confessed the conspiracy. 

The secretary noted for this event: “… He named François van der Straeten was condemned to be hanged with rope by the neck, at the gallows on Burg Square until death occurs. His dead body was carried outside the Smedenpoort to the Gallowsfield (Galgeveld) along the road to Dixmuude, to be hang by the feet upwards at a gallows. His head was cut from the body, and the head was placed on a pole above the Smedenpoort.

The next morning, 26 June 1691, the sun rose with a golden glow at the northeast, with the promise of another beautiful summer’s day. That same day the traitor hanged. His head cut, placed on an iron pole on the Smedenpoort… The crows feasted on his eyes.

True or not?

Well, for that you’ll have to wait until my book is out!



The witch of the Lendestraetkin

Uncategorised Posted on Wed, November 27, 2019 11:50:40

When you’re walking from ‘t Zand to the main shopping street (Zuidzandstraat) there’s a narrow street on the right hand side: Lendestraat. No need to go down this street. Maybe better to stay in the crowds for this story… as it’s said witches roamed this tiny street!

Troublesome times in Bruges, with a constant threat of war. A couple of years ago, in 1631, Frederik Henry, Prince of Orange stood at the walls of Bruges with his army. One year later, the Plague broke out, taking so many lives. Crops died, harvests failed. The price of grain had never been this high, and kept on climbing. Death by hunger or disease came with the poor families. Why was the city dealing with this much disaster? It seemed as the Devil had a finger in all of this…

Back then, an old widow, Mayken Karrebrouck, lived in this narrow street, Lendestraetkin. She lived here with her son, Jan. They were poor people, trying to make a living by selling milk and butter. There was also a bit of money coming in by helping other people in the household here and there.
Mayken had the habit of hanging the root of mugwort on the wall of her house, to keep the Devil and other evil spirits out. Sometimes she made wreaths of mugwort for other people, so they could place this on the wall of their homes or barns in protection for evil spirits, fire or strike of lightning. Three years ago Mayken and her son got really sick. A tailor from Bruges, Simon Verstraete, gave them notes in parchment. With holy words on them, to keep them from water and fire. Keeping the notes in their pocket, making crosses – a lot – to empower the holy words. Mayken paid him with milk and butter, and their got better.
Mayken knew walnuts helped holding off witches, or when a mad dog bit you. Ruta graveolens was also good to have in the house, when the Plague broke out. Not only that, but it als provided protection against the Devil, witches, poison and black cats. Yes, you could say this little old lady knew her herbs and what they were good for. It was no trouble for her to make a potion if you needed something. She helped a blind lady once, and a young man, Peter. His feet all swollen, infected. She tried to help him, but alas.

One of her neighbors, Maye Luucx, was always arguing with Mayken. One time, one of the black chickens of Mayken broke out, ran straight in the house of Maye, scaring her husband. Maye grabbed the chicken and threw it over the half door in Maykens house. A couple of days later, the family Luucx moved away. Somewhat later Mayken heard that Maye and her husband were spreading the rumor their chickens didn’t give any more eggs. Even worse, their son, Adriaen, got very sick shortly after. They got help from the best healers, but he died.
After this, every time Mayken ran into Maye somewhere in the city, Maye loudly accused her of being a witch, responsible for the death of her son, Adriaen. Claiming Mayken bewitched him by giving her son five or six apples with a bit of black powder on them. Husband Luucx believed his wife, one evening he chased Mayken down the street and beat her up. Yes, not the most healthy situation between those two women. Maye Luucx turned up the rumors by telling Mayken conspired with the Devil. She saw with her own eyes how those two were dancing, on the Fridaymarket, six to eight times she witnessed this. Not only Mayken was there, having a good time with the Dark Lord. No! Grietken zonder Ziele (Griet without Soul) and Cathelyne Ide were there. Cathelyne was not only selling brooms during the day, but she was the personal supplier of those women on those gatherings!

No need to tell you, soon enough everyone believed these stories and Mayken was named witch. So it happened one day a girl in the school next to the house of Mayken had an epileptic attack. It couldn’t be coincidence that this only happened just at the moment the dog of Mayken started barking. A neighbor of Mayken claimed her husband was bewitched with a herring, because he got very sick after eating it. There was also the son of Betkin Moerynck, a widow living in a street named Meers. This man witnessed Mayken giving prunes, covered with a powder to a child. The child got very sick after eating the prunes.

Officers arrested Mayken, and they interrogated her with gruesome techniques. During the torture a bat flew in the room through the open window. Judges interpreted this as a visit of a young demon. A more obvious indication of her bond with the Devil and his demons couldn’t be possible. The judges weren’t that interested in the so-called harm she inflicted on her neighbors, but more in her connection with the Devil. They wanted to know if witches were arriving on broomsticks to the meetings, where it was they gathered to praise the Dark Lord, where the orgies took place or where the cauldron was they used to make ointment out of babies fat. Mayken told the judges she knew Cathelyne with her brooms. How she bewitched cows, horses, pigs and chickens. She was responsible for the Plague because she added a powder to the milk and butter she sold. She bewitched the daughter of Mary, who sold wine in the Langestraat, by tapping on the girl’s back three times. The Devil learned Mayken to make a preparation of herbs, so when given to children they would suffer first for several months before dying. She attended several witch gatherings. More than one hundred women were there. They all denied God, in the presence of the Devil. During the interrogations, Mayken begged the officer to remove the collar with nails. Instead, the collar tightened a bit more while they asked her who taught her the dark arts. Mayken ignored the question, but when the collar closed a bit more, she confessed, in excruciating pain, that Grietken zonder Ziel who was her mentor. Everyone suspected Grietken had to be a witch. She once spat on a cross and she refused to be baptized. Grietken had met the Devil about nineteen years ago. He appeared to her in a human form, asking her if she wanted to learn things. She agreed to this offer.

On 22 June 1634, Mayken and Grietken were strangled to death on Burg Square. Their bodies were then burned. On 10 July Cathelyne Ide suffered the same fate. After the executions the judges, interrogators and executioner had a meal. Justice had prevailed.

True or not ?
This story, with the exception of a couple of details, is sadly true! The women mentioned in this story lived here and were executed in Bruges. It is a dark page in the history of the city, but it shows how life was during the times of the hunt and prosecution of witches in the 17th century. Mayken Karrebrouck and Maye Luucx had a confrontation with each other. Records of these trails are still kept in the archives.
The witch prosecution took place between 1450 and 1750, costing the lives of over many ten thousands. Most estimations run from thirty to sixty thousand executions, of which 80% female. Most of these women were older (around 60), poor, single and powerless. Mayken Karrebrouck was 66 at the time of her execution.
It is a common mistake people make, thinking the hunt for witches took place in the Middle Ages, while this happened more during the Renaissance-era. If you were harming other by means of supernatural ways, this was considered witchcraft.
Around 1375 the thought of sealing a pact with the Devil was added to the accusations. Most witches confessed to all accusations due to extended torture. Many didn’t even survive the interrogations. If they reformed to Catholicism after their confessions, then after strangulation to death their bodies were burned, so they would be granted access to heaven.
Before the 16th century the punishment remained simple fines, possibly with exile from society. Only later the more bloody prosecutions came. Shortly after 1590 a bonus-feature was added!
Not only did those poor people make a deal with the Devil, but they also slept with the Devil. This happened during one of the withes gatherings. People were tortured to name all those present at the gatherings. Large-scale trials took place, accusing numerous innocent people. Upon reading the scripts of the interrogations, certain things are noticeable.
For instance, how they met the Devil is in many cases about the same; also telling the penis of the Devil felt ice-cold is something you can find on regular bases. If you read between the lines, it is obvious the confessions are the result of series of suggestive questioning, rather than a real account of the interrogated person. The named bewitchments are classic: sickness; death of a husband, wife or child; sickness or death of cattle after touch or even an evil eye of a suspected witch. If you had a bad name in the streets, that was enough to be accused of sorcery. With limited knowledge of medicine, considering an unexplainable illness to evil sorcery by a witch was easier. In addition, sometimes this was a way to get rid of unwanted competition.

The Southern Netherlands (of which Bruges was a part) most certainly had a part in this dark period of European history. At the end, roughly estimated, in this region at least 922 witches were burned to the stake between 1450 and 1685. Around 1660 there was a huge change in mentality considering these matters. People became more skeptical and rejected the concept of immaterial beings. Judges weren’t condemning people to the death during the prosecution of witches any longer, the ways to enforce confessions were no longer allowed by law. By 1720 there were practical no more witch trials happening anywhere in Europe.



Santa Who ?

Historical figures Posted on Wed, November 28, 2018 10:23:42

Some visitors get confused, and I can understand them. When they’re walking around in Bruges, they go in the chocolate shops and see two different Santa’s standing.

When asking what’s that all about, they get the reply that there is “Sinterklaas” and “Santa Claus”. But, wait a minute… If you translate Sinterklaas, that IS Santa Claus… What the hell??

In Belgium and the Netherlands (generally the former Dutch colonies) we have two “Santa’s”. The first is Sinterklaas (as we call him) and that’s celebrated on December 6th. Where the heck did he come from?

Well, somewhere in the 2nd- 3rdcentury there was a Bisshop Nicolaas of Myra who lived in Turkey (the country, not the bird…) and died on… December 6th342. Due to some legends, he became patron for children. Legends were of 3 schoolchildren beaten to death by an innkeeper but revived by St Nicolaas, 3 poor daughters who could still get married thanks to the gifts given by St Nicolaas or the legend of a child being put in a bath by St Nicolaas to protect him from a fire.

You may notice that “Sinterklaas” is kinda sounding like Saint Nicolaas but it’s not exactly the same. The aggregation happened somewhere in the late 1200’s. Since then he was considered the big friend for all children, giving out candy and presents. During the history his role changed to a bogeyman who rewarded the good children, but punished the bad by putting them in a bag.

In the 1700’s it was changed back to the good man we know today, using the bag for putting the presents in, not kids…

So he changed from patron for children, to a bogeyman, strict pedagogue into the folkloric friend for all children we have today.

Santa Claus comes from Saint Nicolaas. Remember there where a lot of Dutch when the new colonies were started? Well, in time the name changed and with the reformation and contra reformation a lot changed. Protestants banned the feast of St Nicolaas. But it was so popular with the common people it didn’t completely disappear. It transformed.

The first drawing of the Santa Claus we know today is from Thomas Nast in 1881. I added a picture of it below.

The American Santa Claus is probably a mix of Father Christmas and Saint Nicolaas.

So don’t go saying Santa Claus to Saint Nicolaas in Belgium, it is totally different.

Saint Nicolaas rides a horse, accompagnied by his helpers (Zwarte Pieten). Santa Claus has his sleigh with the reindeers and is helped by his elves. Common is the mistake people say Saint Nicolaas lives in Spain, but he only travels to Spain to get the gifts and sweets. Santa Claus lives on the North Pole.

I’d like to finish with a poem… Yes I know, it’s not my habit in doing this, but it’s such a known, and nice poem. In 1823 an unknown author published A visit from St Nicholas. Enjoy !

‘Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house

Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse;

The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,

In hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there;

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,

While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads;

And mamma in her ’kerchief, and I in my cap,

Had just settled our brains for a long winter’s nap,

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,

I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.

Away to the window I flew like a flash,

Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow

Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below,

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,

But a miniature sleigh, and eight tiny reindeer,

With a little old driver, so lively and quick,

I knew in a moment it must be St. Nick.

More rapid than eagles his coursers they came,

And he whistled, and shouted, and called them by name;

“Now, Dasher! now, Dancer! now, Prancer and Vixen!

On, Comet! on, Cupid! on, Donder and Blitzen!

To the top of the porch! to the top of the wall!

Now dash away! dash away! dash away all!”

As dry leaves that before the wild hurricane fly,

When they meet with an obstacle, mount to the sky;

So up to the house-top the coursers they flew,

With the sleigh full of Toys, and St. Nicholas too.

And then, in a twinkling, I heard on the roof

The prancing and pawing of each little hoof.

As I drew in my head, and was turning around,

Down the chimney St. Nicholas came with a bound.

He was dressed all in fur, from his head to his foot,

And his clothes were all tarnished with ashes and soot;

A bundle of Toys he had flung on his back,

And he looked like a pedler just opening his pack.

His eyes—how they twinkled! his dimples how merry!

His cheeks were like roses, his nose like a cherry!

His droll little mouth was drawn up like a bow

And the beard of his chin was as white as the snow;

The stump of a pipe he held tight in his teeth,

And the smoke it encircled his head like a wreath;

He had a broad face and a little round belly,

That shook when he laughed, like a bowlful of jelly.

He was chubby and plump, a right jolly old elf,

And I laughed when I saw him, in spite of myself;

A wink of his eye and a twist of his head,

Soon gave me to know I had nothing to dread;

He spoke not a word, but went straight to his work,

And filled all the stockings; then turned with a jerk,

And laying his finger aside of his nose,

And giving a nod, up the chimney he rose;

He sprang to his sleigh, to his team gave a whistle,

And away they all flew like the down of a thistle,

But I heard him exclaim, ere he drove out of sight,

“Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good-night.”



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